My Cheat Days
Occasional
Jottings
My
Cheat Days
Dr.
C. V. Ananda Bose
“Sir,
the weather is brilliant today. I am
sure you had a nice walk in the garden…” my good doctor said, sounding a bit
apprehensive. Usually he is cheerful. Something must be making him anxious.
“Uhmmm…sigh…”
I could muster, followed by slurping, as I dug into another delicious
roshomalai, but not before a couple of spoonful of the flavoured cream it was sitting
in cosily.
“Hmm.”
I said with my mouth full with the second roshomalai.
The
fresh supply of roshomalais were tantalizing my tastebuds since the past half
an hour since they found their way into the household. I had to do something with those. “For they had eyes and chose me!”
After
relishing the roshomalai around my tastebuds and consigning it to its
designated area of my body, I looked up at the doctor wiping my lips with a
tissue paper, contented.
“You
were asking something?” I enquired, as I
got up from my breakfast table and started walking towards my office.
“The
walk Sir. You enjoyed your walk
today?” the doctor said uneasily.
What
on earth does he mean by that. Of
course I enjoyed my yoga followed by 20 minutes walk in the garden. I do that regularly. I have a fantastic yoga instructor. He makes yoga seem fun and pleasure. He is often the first visitor of the day and
stays back for some time.
“Sure,
doctor. I did my yoga and then walked a
bit.” I said waving to my yoga teacher who took his
leave.
“Why
do you ask?” I enquired, still unable to
comprehend his question or reason for his sounding anxious over such a routine
event, even as I took my seat in the office and pulled towards me a sheaf of
papers. I waved at the doctor to take a
seat. He sat opposite me. Why do
most doctors sit on the opposite side, I wonder. They look like ‘opponents’ at a debate.
“The
roshomalai was tasty, Sir…” The doctor
said.
I
couldn’t figure out if it was a statement or a question.
God. What happened to the good doctor today? He is not making any sense at all.
“Yes
doctor. It was indeed.” Still relishing its sweetening effect in my
mouth.
Now
I looked up at him. He thrust a sheet
of paper at me that contained what seemed to be a tabular statement of something. I could only make out some figures neatly
written in each cell of the statement.
“Sir,
your yoga and walks have kept your sugar reading in perfect condition. This is the statement of my readings over the
last 15 days.” He filled me up with the information
hurriedly.
“And…”
I said trying my best to be ignorant of his machinations!
“Sir,
thanks to your strict physical routines, your sugar is under sustained
check.” the doctor sounded
appealing. “But the roshomalais…”
So,
this is what it was all about. The good
doctor has found an adversary – the roshomalais with a divine taste.
Why
can’t people communicate in a direct manner?
Why do you have to go around walking in the garden, doing yoga,
so-called devastating health consequences…just to say that you need to cut on
your sweets intake? It is like instead
of calling a spade a spade you narrate the evolution of agriculture and farming
and gardening to prove that a spade is called a spade!
Trying
my best to sound innocent, I said in a matter-of-fact manner, “Look Doctor, the
sugar is your problem. Not mine. Moreover, I have been going through the
physical regime diligently…doing yoga and walks, apart from moving the body as
best as I can…”
We
Indians have been eating sweets since ancient times. It is documented that in
India, consumption of sugary foods was a practice from around 500 BCE. Rig Veda
has a mention of Apupa that was the precursor of Malpua. The Manasollasa, the 12th Century
encyclopaedia, mentions several sweets, including "pysam." Sweet modaks are the favourite of Lord
Ganesha and Lord Buddha. Since aeons we have accorded a very special place to
mithatis as an inseparable part of any cultural and religious celebrations and
make those memorable. If our ancestors
were not concerned about their sugar readings, why should I be?
Moreover,
didn’t that motivational video of film star Akshay Kumar – inspiring a plump
fellow to move the body more, take the stairs, walk whenever possible, and
follow a strict diet on six days of the week – also talk about a ‘cheat day’ in
a week ? The cheat day was when you go
back to your old self – eat whatever you like, loiter around, slump in the sofa
all day long watching TV or playing video games…and so on…
Today
is Poila Baisakh, for God sakes! When
the entire State is celebrating with choicest sweets I can’t stay aloof,
sticking to my usually bland diet, can I?
Should I?
“Today
is my cheat day.” I declared in a tone that brooks no retort.
It
is a different matter that my ‘cheat day’ often does not appear after six days
of intensively strict health regime...I thought slyly!
“I
understand Sir.” Said the doctor before
taking his leave.
You
can’t be serious. You can’t be living in
the epicentre of the famous ‘Bengali sweets’ by resisting its sweet influence
on you. It will be like fighting with
the crocodile and still living in the pond. Bengal is not only the culture
capital of India, it is often regarded as the capital of the country’s
gastronomical mosaic. And the king of
the Bengali dessert is undoubtedly the iconic rosogolla – easily the symbol of
Bengal’s culinary perfection and pride.
People swear by this soft, spongy ball soaked in sugar syrup, and
protect its identity feverishly. It has
the GI tag.
Close
behind Rosogolla comes Sandesh and my roshomalai, pantua, langcha,
mihidana…come to think of it…every variety of sweets.
Actually
this was my own secret, devised to skirt round the so-called threat of clinical
sugar from sweets often narrated by the doctor, the yoga teacher and others (I
figured out that sweets read Rosogolla in Bengal, primarily). Hence I take to roshomalais, rabris and
pantuas, which may not sound an alarm immediately among those ganging up
against me and my food preferences even on ‘cheat days’ as a threat to my
health, giving me enough time to erase all traces of my sweet rendezvous with
these delicacies.
Kolkata,
and Bengal, are easily the most decorated and celebrated for its dessert-making
art. The sheer variety of sweets that
the artisans cull out is mindboggling. They
ferociously protect their trade secrets, they improvise and reinvent, are
excellent marketing strategists, incorporate seasonal fruits and their taste in
the sweets to give it a freshness – both of thought and the product and enrich
customer experience. Like everything
else, the mishit has also evolved and has embraced the health-conscious
GenZ. Now dainty, gourmet sweets also
cater to modern market imperatives.
When
visitors from different parts of the State call on me they do bring the local
sweet that the region is famous for. For
instance, people from Bardhaman always bring langcha (fresh from Saktigarh),
sitabhog and mihidana. I liked the
mihidana which I was told, was made from cottage cheese, sugar, and semolina,
often flavored with cardamom or saffron.
It is soft and melts in your mouth and of course has a delightful
taste. The sheer size of the langcha is
intimidating, but it tastes equally delicious.
Joynagarer
moa, coming from South 24 Parganas, is seasonal and is prepared with nolen gur,
kanakchur khoi, gawa ghee, elach and posto.
Recognised with a GI tag the ‘secret ingredients’ that go into preparing
this delight is protected from unauthorised uses and piracy.
The
visitor who brought a pack of Joynagarer moa soon after I came to Raj Bhavan in
November 2022, informed me with elan that in the early 20th century
two friends Purna Chandra Ghosh and Nityagopal Sarkar started selling the Moa
in local weekly markets and it came to be known as Buchki's Moa, which later
came to be known as Joynagarer Moa.
Durga
Puja comes and Rajbhog somehow comes to the fore. A variation of Rosogolla, it is larger in
size and is often filled with dry fruits, nuts, or other sweet ingredients. Its
distinctive features include soft and spongy texture and rich fillings such as khoya
or nuts.
Inquisitive
by nature and appreciative of innovative minds, I did try to gather information
about the famous shops that bring out such appetizing variety of products. For over 250 years the renowned moiras of
Bengal – the culinary alchemists, who specialise in transforming ingredients
into exquisite and delicious sweets – set up shops creating what is still today
regarded as the symphonies of sweetness and tradition. And each establishment has emerged as an
institution unto itself and each always does have a story to tell – a story of
culture, tradition, flavour and love, celebrating the life’s sweetness.
Bhim
Chandra Nag in Bow Bazar, Putiram in College Street, Adi Haridas Modak in Shyambazar crossing standing there
for around 250 years, Chittaranjan Mishtanna Bhandar that specialises in the GI
tagged Rosogolla and in the sweets business for over a century, K. C. Das, just
across the street from Raj Bhavan, and comes to mind whenever there is a
mention of rosogolla and of course Nobin Chandra Das near Shobhabazar. Then there is Ganguram, Balaram Mullick &
Radharaman Mullick with its over 130 years heritage, Girish Chandra Dey and
Nakur Chandra Nandy – one of the oldest and most famous sweet shops in Kolkata
speicalising in Sandesh, monohara and jolbhora, in operation since 1844, the
over a 100 year old Sen Mahasay, Nalin Chandra Das And Sons founded in 1841, to
name a few, all uphold the great Bengali sweets heritage and tradition.
The
origin and progress of the GI tagged Rosogolla is interesting. It is said that in 1868, during the Bengal
Renaissance, confectioner Nobin Chandra Das also called ‘Columbus of Rosogolla’
was credited with having invented the rosogolla. His son, Krishna Chandra Das, promoted
rosogolla as a national sweet from the beginning of the 20th
century. In 1935, Krishna Chandra’s son Sarada Charan Das set
up the chain’s first modern outlet at Esplanade. In 2017, Bengal was granted the GI tag for
‘Banglar Rasagolla’. The GI tag for
Odisha variety was given in 2019. There
had been a tug of war between the two States, staking a claim to the origin of
rosogolla. Notwithstanding the tug of
war, Rosogolla’s command over the palate and culinary delight remains
undiminished.
KC
Das brings out varieties of rosogollas with distinct flavours including strawberry,
rose and black current, among others.
Younger
sweet chain like Hindustan Sweets (1949) brought out ‘football rosogolla’ once. Banccharam, has been serving to the tastebuds
of connoisseurs since the last 46 years and showcasing the sweet treasures of
Bengal.
Such heritage sweets
outlets are dotted across the length and breadth of West Bengal.
The State Government has
also set up Mishti Hubs to promote Bengali sweets and to aid the manufacturers.
* * *
I
try not to overload my senses with the caveats of the doctors. I take my cheat day seriously.
The
other day as I entered my residence upstairs for lunch, I saw the Lady Governor
and some Household officials discussing about the type of sweets to procure for
guests and for presentation as gifts. They
were talking about tasting some samples.
Sensing
what was happening, and slightly irritated about the general embargo on my
sweets intake, I announced decisively–
‘The
buck always stops with me. I should
approve the sweets to be selected.’
Stunned
silence ensued in the room.
Silence
sounded good. I chuckled secretly as I
made my way to the lunch table, pleased with my presence of mind and quick
thinking at such a crucial time.
*
* *
What
happened that evening after office, as I came back to my residence, is a
different story altogether!
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